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Appliance Buying Guide: Ranges

Published: January 15, 2010

When deciding on a new range, here's what you'll need to know about features, style, price, and performance.

Most ranges do a fine job of boiling water, baking cookies, and roasting the holiday bird. The major distinguishing factor will be whether the one you buy does so using gas or electricity. In general, a gas range with electronic ignition (instead of a gas-fired pilot light) can cost up to 50% less to operate than an electric model, depending on the price of utilities in your area.
Because there's very little difference in energy consumption among ranges, these appliances aren't required to bear EnergyGuide labels, nor are they included in the Energy Star (http://www.energystar.gov/) program. Other than by fuel type, homeowners typically select ranges based on budget, ease of cleaning, appearance, and performance.

Cost range: $350-$2,000 and up

Likely additional costs: Delivery, installation, haul away, gas line hookup, or electrical outlet installation if none exists

Average life span: 11-15 years

Gas or electric: "When a customer comes in for a new range, the first question I always ask is 'Gas or electric?'" says Lenny Kaminski, sales manager at B & B Appliances, an 85-year-old retailer in Cleveland. Typically, it's the home rather than the homeowner that will make this decision. Buyers who have a natural gas line in the kitchen will inevitably purchase a gas-powered range, while those without choose electric.

The one major exception is when a kitchen is undergoing a major remodel, allowing a homeowner to switch to gas with relative ease (assuming the house has a main line). Electric ranges typically require a dedicated 220-volt outlet.

Size: The standard width of a residential range is 30 inches. Those boasting side-by-side ovens and high-end "commercial-style" models can extend to 36, 40, and even 48 inches wide. However, smaller 20- and 24-inch models are available for kitchens short on space. The oven compartment on a standard-size range is 5 cubic feet, large enough to cook a 30-pound turkey.

Ease of cleaning: All but the least expensive electric ranges now feature smooth, ceramic glass cooktop designs rather than traditional coil burners, making them easy to clean. The jump from entry-level coil-burner electric ranges to those with smooth tops is roughly $150. Sealed-burner designs are present on almost all gas ranges and are relatively easy to clean.

Self-cleaning ovens are standard, appearing in models starting as low as $350.

Convection: One of the first major upgrades a buyer often makes, says Kaminski, is choosing an electric or gas range with convection heat. With convection, an internal fan circulates the hot air throughout the oven compartment, improving heat distribution and generally reducing cook times. Many home and professional cooks swear by the technology. Customers can count on spending an additional $200 to get the feature.

Burner quantity and type: The standard quantity of burners on a typical range is four, but buyers need not stop there. Stepping up to a mid-range gas or electric stove often comes with an additional fifth burner. Depending on the make and model, that burner could be an ultra-low "melting" burner or a centrally placed oval burner that accommodates griddle pans.

Likewise, a "bridge" burner is a smaller element located between two larger ones that, when on, creates one large heating element ideal for griddles and roasting pans. Five-burner ranges generally start around $800.

Burner performance: "BTUs absolutely affect performance, with some of the higher-powered burners boiling a pot of water in half the time of standard one," says Kaminski. Both electric and gas burners have gotten more powerful over the years, offering increased performance at a relatively modest extra charge.

While 9,000 BTUs is standard, so-called "power" burners can climb up to 15,000 BTUs. Conversely, ultra-low "simmer" burners prevent stove-top scorching thanks to their scaled-back BTU output. Expect to pay around $200 extra for these well-equipped appliances.

Going pro: Avid home cooks--or those who follow current trends--often prefer the look and feel of a commercial-style range. Like the restaurant appliances they emulate, these residential versions boast ultra-high-powered burners, multiple large-capacity ovens, and convenient grill/griddle inserts.

Homeowners should expect to pay between $4,000 for a 30-inch unit up to $10,000 for a top-of-the-line 48-inch model. Likely additional expenses will include the installation of an equally high-powered exhaust hood and possibly some enhanced structural support.

Warming drawer or extra oven: Many contemporary ranges replace the conventional lower-level storage drawer with either a smaller second oven or a warming drawer. A variable-temperature warming drawer is ideal for keeping prepared food hot or warming chilly dinner plates. Expect models with this feature to start in the $1,000 range.

Second ovens, even the smaller ones that take the place of the storage drawer, can be very useful when cooking multiple items. Though shorter than the main compartment, the additional oven easily accommodates casseroles, cookie sheets, and platters. Configurations are available that position the smaller oven above or below the main compartment. Models start at $1,200.

Additional useful features: Temperature probes that monitor the progress of cooking items ensure the turkey will never again be overcooked and dry. Unfortunately, the technology doesn't appear on many models under $1,300. Battery-powered countertop probes, in contrast, sell for only $30. Smooth-glide oven racks, porcelain-coated racks and grates, and halogen lighting all make the cooking process less of a chore. The question is whether the additional hundred dollars each is worth it.

Expected maintenance/repairs: Oven bulbs will need to be changed periodically. Coil-style electric burners often fail, but they're easily replaced for around $30. Glow coils that ignite gas ovens can fail, requiring a $50 part plus labor. More costly is a cracked glass top on a smooth-top electric range, which can cost $250 to replace. Electric control panels, while reasonably reliable, can cost up to $250 plus labor to repair.

Douglas Trattner has covered household appliances and home improvement for the Cleveland Plain Dealer, DIYNetworks, and HGTV.com. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he's upgraded almost every household appliance. After lengthy deliberation, he recently replaced an aging top-load washing machine with an energy-efficient front-load unit.

Appliance Buying Guide: Clothes Dryers

Published: January 15, 2010

When deciding on a new clothes dryer, here's what you'll need to know about features, style, price, and performance.

Essentially a box with a heater and fan, a clothes dryers is a surprisingly uncomplicated machine. But that doesn't mean that purchasing one is equally straightforward. Despite the fact that every dryer sold today reliably dries clothes, there's great range in terms of price, design, and features. The good news is that there's often little difference in terms of performance.
Because there isn't much disparity in energy consumption among dryers, these appliances aren't required to bear Energy Guide labels, nor are they included in the Energy Star program.

Cost range: $280-$1,200 and up

Likely additional costs: Delivery, installation, haul away, gas line hookup, or 220-volt electrical outlet installation if none exists

Average life span: 12-18 years

Gas or electric: The heat that dryers generate to dry clothes comes either from an electrical heating element or a gas-fired burner. As is the case with ranges and cooktops, home setups often dictate which to purchase. Although roughly $80 more than identical electric models, gas dryers can trim as much as 50% off operating costs, depending on the price of natural gas in your area, according to the Consumer Energy Center (http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dryers.html).

In addition to a gas line, gas dryers require a standard 110-volt electrical outlet. An electric dryer, however, requires a dedicated 220-volt outlet.

Appearance: Most customers select a particular model clothes dryer not for its performance, but for its appearance, says Lenny Kaminski, sales manager at B & B Appliances, an 85-year-old retail outlet in Cleveland. Simply put, many homeowners want their dryer to match their washer.

To match the shape and style of a modern energy-efficient front load washer, expect to pay at least $650. Designer colors have reached the laundry room, with vivid reds, blues, and metallic finishes available as options. To purchase a dryer in shades other than white, beige or bisque, plan on spending $600 and up.

Size and capacity: The standard width of a clothes dryer is 27 to 29 inches. Trimmer models are available for compact spaces. Drum capacity is measured in cubic feet, with most models ranging from 5.5 to 7. Higher-end models stretch up to 8 cubic feet, but experts say that much of that room is wasted. Look for one with about twice the capacity of your clothes washer.

Variable settings for time and temperature: Shoppers need not pay extra for a machine with multiple temperature settings--even the most basic models have low, medium, and high. The same is true for timed dry sessions. As shoppers move up the product ladder (starting around $350), additional options such as no-heat "air fluff" for delicates and heavy duty for jeans start to appear.
The same is true for models with "wrinkle shield," a feature that intermittently tumbles the clothes following a dry cycle to prevent wrinkles. Pricier machines have double the settings, but most are rarely used.

Moisture sensor: A dryer is one of the biggest energy hogs in the house, a fact made worse when these appliances run longer than necessary. Dryers with moisture sensors in the drum automatically shut off when the clothing is dry, trimming about 15% in operating costs, according to the Consumer Energy Center. The good news is that this feature is pretty much standard on all modern machines. Make sure to look for it.

Removable dryer rack: Dryer racks protect hats, sneakers, and other delicate items from getting knocked about by suspending them above the drum for tumble-free drying. The feature typically is unavailable on machines under $450. Says Kaminski: "People don't wind up using them as much as they thought they would."

Noise dampening: Depending on where the dryer sits in the house, this feature can be quite valuable. For dryers positioned near living areas and bedrooms, the extra money spent for noise reduction is easily justified. Quiet dryers, which start around $600, contain special sound-dampening materials on the top and sides of the appliance.

Steam: Shoppers comfortable spending at least $900 on a clothes dryer can opt for one with steam technology, a feature designed to remove wrinkles and odors. Some steam-equipped dryers require a water hookup, while others rely on a reservoir that the homeowner fills manually. Cost-conscious consumers claim to achieve similar results by adding a damp washcloth to a wrinkled load.

Stainless steel drum: Unlike ceramic-coated steel drums, stainless steel ones stay free of nicks and scratches caused by metal zippers, buttons, and rivets. Additionally, stainless drums will remain rust-free, preventing wet clothes from becoming stained. Clothes dryers with stainless drums start appearing in the $500 range.

Expected maintenance/repairs: Lint trays should be cleaned before every load. Vent hoses and exhaust lines should be cleaned and inspected once a year. The drive belt that turns the drum may wear out and snap, necessitating replacement. The electric heating element can burn out, requiring a $125 replacement part plus labor. Digital control panels, while reasonably reliable, can cost up to $250 plus labor to repair.

7 Ways to Save on Lighting Costs

By: Charlotte Barnard
Published: August 28, 2009

Lighting eats up as much as 20% of your annual electric bill, but using energy-efficient bulbs and making other simple changes can cut lighting costs dramatically.

Lighting is one of the biggest energy gobblers in your house, eating up between 10% and 20% of your total electric bill. But it's also one area of the home where a minimal effort can yield major returns. Simply replacing standard incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents can lower operating costs by as much as 75% per bulb. And in places where you can't-or don't want to-switch to CFLs, you can use higher-efficiency incandescents and even make your existing conventional lighting cheaper to operate. When new federal legislation takes effect in 2012, all light bulbs will have to meet tougher energy-efficiency standards. But with a few small changes, you can start saving money right now.
For the greatest savings, switch to compact fluorescents
CFLs remain the go-to choice for energy efficiency. They last longer and consume less electricity than a standard incandescent. A 13-watt CFL, for example, gives off the same amount of light as a 60-watt incandescent and burns for 10,000 hours, compared with 1,000 hours for the conventional bulb. A typical CFL saves about $30 in operating costs over its lifetime.
Early CFLs didn't always deliver on light quality or convenience, but aesthetic performance has improved vastly in recent years. They now come in warm, neutral, and cool "colors," and major manufacturers like GE have started enclosing the telltale spiral in a conventional bulb shape so it's less obtrusive.
You get the biggest bang for your buck with CFLs in places where you would otherwise use incandescent bulbs: floor and table lamps and standard overhead fixtures. They last longer when they're not flipped on and off constantly, so they're especially good in rooms that see a lot of activity throughout the day, such as a kitchen or a playroom. A couple of caveats: CFLs can be glary, so they're not the best choice in downward-pointing fixtures like chandeliers, and most don't work with dimmers or timers. Because the bulbs contain mercury, they can't be thrown out in the regular trash. If you bought them at a home center, you should be able to return them there for recycling, or log on to recycleabulb.com (http://www.recycleabulb.com/) to find a disposal center near you.
Cost and savings: Expect to pay $2 to $15 for a CFL, versus 50 cents to $1 for a comparable incandescent, but the CFL will last at least 10 times longer and cost up to 75% less to operate.
Make your existing incandescents less expensive to run
By simply lowering the wattage of an incandescent bulb by 15 watts-from 75 to 60, for example-you can knock 15% off the operating cost. And you may not even notice the difference in brightness. "A small reduction in wattage isn't discernible to the eye," says Brett Sawyer, a consultant who blogs about sustainable home design. If the light is on a dimmer, for every 10% you lower the brightness, you'll double the bulb's life. Try this next weekend, Sawyer says: Replace your most-used bulbs with ones at least 10 watts lower. If you don't notice the difference, then replace all the incandescents you can with lower-wattage bulbs. Combine that with CFLs in selected fixtures, and you'll achieve a "light layering" effect that saves money without compromising light quality, and without a hefty upfront investment.
Cost and savings: For every 15-watt reduction, you reduce energy use by 15%. And a $10 dimmer, once installed, costs nothing to use.
Keep an eye on new bulb technologies
Spurred on by new energy requirements set to go into effect in 2012, bulb manufacturers are working feverishly to come up with more efficient versions of the standard incandescent. Presently, companies including GE, Sylvania, and Philips offer high-efficiency incandescent and halogen bulbs that use less energy than standard incandescents while delivering the same light quality. And research is proceeding apace on how to bring the dramatic energy efficiency of LED technology to residential products. These lights, which require very little current and last even longer than CFLs, are prohibitively expensive for home use (except in certain applications like under-cabinet strip lighting), but that's likely to change in the coming years.
Think beyond the bulb to save on lighting costs
Changing bulbs is one way to reduce your lighting bill, but it's not the only way.
Motion sensors: Great in rooms where the occupants can't be counted on to turn off the light, such as a kids' playroom. Devices cost $15 to $50 and take about an hour to install.
Door-jamb switches: Best in a pantry or closet; opening the door activates the light. As much a convenience as it is an energy saver-as long as you remember to close the door. Devices starts at about $15.
Windows: You'd be surprised at how much a simple window cleaning can instantly improve natural light.
Energy Star fixtures: Designed for CFL and LED lights, these can save up to $70 a year in energy costs. Go to energystar.gov (http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=fixtures.pr_light_fixtures) to find links to manufacturers.
Lifestyle expert Charlotte Barnard specializes in home improvement and decorating topics and also consults on consumer and residential trends for magazines, web sites, and retail ventures.

8 Easy Ways to Seal Air Leaks Around the House

By: Jeanne Huber
Published: September 16, 2009

For what the typical family wastes every year on air leaks--about $350--you can plug energy-robbing gaps, start saving money, and enjoy a more comfortable home.

A typical family spends about a third of its annual heating and cooling budget-roughly $350-on air that leaks into or out of the house through unintended gaps and cracks. With the money you waste in just one year, you can plug many of those leaks yourself. It's among the most cost-effective things you can do to conserve energy and increase comfort, according to Energy Star. Start in the attic, since that's where you'll find some of the biggest energy drains. Then tackle the basement, to prevent cold air that enters there from being sucked into upstairs rooms. Finally, seal air leaks in the rest of the house. Here are eight places to start.
1. Insulate around recessed lights
Most recessed lights have vents that open into the attic, a direct route for heated or cooled air to escape. When you consider that many homes have 30 or 40 of these fixtures, it's easy to see why researchers at the Pennsylvania Housing Research/Resource Center pinpointed them as a leading cause of household air leaks. Lights labeled ICAT, for "insulation contact and air tight," are already sealed; look for the label next to the bulb. If you don't see it, assume yours leaks. An airtight baffle ($8-$30 at the home center) is a quick fix. Remove the bulb, push the baffle up into the housing, then replace the bulb.
2. Plug open stud cavities
Most of your house probably has an inner skin of drywall or plaster between living space and unheated areas. But builders in the past often skipped this cover behind knee walls (partial-height walls where the roof angles down into the top floor), above dropped ceilings or soffits, and above angled ceilings over stairs.
Up in the attic, you may need to push insulation away to see if the stud cavities are open. If they are, seal them with unfaced fiberglass insulation ($1.30 a square foot) stuffed into plastic garbage bags; the bag is key to blocking air flow. Close large gaps with scraps of drywall or pieces of reflective foil insulation ($2 a square foot). Once you've covered the openings, smooth the insulation back into place. To see these repairs in action, consult Energy Star's DIY guide to air sealing (http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/publications/pubdocs/DIY_Guide_May_2008.pdf).
3. Close gaps around flues and chimneys
Building codes require that wood framing be kept at least one inch from metal flues and two inches from brick chimneys. But that creates gaps where air can flow through. Cover the gaps with aluminum flashing ($12) cut to fit and sealed into place with high-temperature silicone caulk ($20). To keep insulation away from the hot flue pipe, form a barrier by wrapping a cylinder of flashing around the flue, leaving a one-inch space in between. To maintain the spacing, cut and bend a series of inch-deep tabs in the cylinder's top and bottom edges.
4. Weatherstrip the attic access door
A quarter-inch gap around pull-down attic stairs or an attic hatch lets through the same amount of air as a bedroom heating duct. Seal it by caulking between the stair frame and the rough opening, or by installing foam weatherstripping around the perimeter of the hatch opening. Or you can buy a pre-insulated hatch cover kit, such as the Energy Guardian from ESS Energy Products ($150).
5. Squirt foam in the medium-size gaps
Once the biggest attic gaps are plugged, move on to the medium-size ones. Low-expansion polyurethane foam in a can is great for plugging openings 1/4-inch to three inches wide, such as those around plumbing pipes and vents. A standard 12-ounce can ($5) is good for 250 feet of bead about half an inch thick. The plastic straw applicator seals shut within two hours of the first use, so to get the most mileage out of a can, squirt a lubricant such as WD-40 onto a pipe cleaner and stuff that into the applicator tube between uses.
6. Caulk the skinny gaps
Caulk makes the best gap-filler for openings less than 1/4-inch wide, such as those cut around electrical boxes. Silicone costs the most ($8 a tube) but works better next to nonporous materials, such as metal flashing, or where there are temperature extremes, as in attics. Acrylic latex caulk ($2 a tube) is less messy to work with and cleans up with water.
7. Plug gaps in the basement
Gaps low on a foundation wall matter if you're trying to fix a wet basement, but only those above the outside soil level let air in. Seal those with the same materials you'd use in an attic: caulk for gaps up to 1/4-inch wide and spray foam for wider ones. Use high-temperature caulk around vent pipes that get hot, such as those for the furnace or water heater. Shoot foam around wider holes for wires, pipes, and ducts that pass through basement walls to the outside.
In most older houses with basements, air seeps in where the house framing sits on the foundation. Spread a bead of caulk between the foundation and the sill plate (the wood immediately above the foundation), and along the top and bottom edges of the rim joist (the piece that sits atop the sill plate).
8. Tighten up around windows and doors
In the main living areas of your home, the most significant drafts tend to occur around windows and doors. If you have old windows, caulking and adding new weatherstripping goes a long way toward tightening them up. Bronze weatherstripping ($12 for 17 feet) lasts for decades but is time-consuming to install, while some self-stick plastic types are easy to put on but don't last very long. Adhesive-backed EPDM rubber ($8 for 10 feet) is a good compromise, rated to last at least 10 years. Nifty gadgets called pulley seals ($9 a pair) block air from streaming though the holes where cords disappear into the frames.
Weatherstripping also works wonders on doors. If a draft comes in at the bottom, install a new door sweep ($9).
Before working in the attic, take some precautions
Try to do attic work on a cool day. Wear protective gear: disposable clothes, gloves, and a double-elastic mask or half-face respirator. Bring along a droplight with a fluorescent bulb, plus at least two pieces of plywood big enough to span two or three joists to support you as you work. To save trips up and down a ladder, try to move up all of the materials you need before you get started. One warning: If you find vermiculite insulation, hold off until you've had it checked for asbestos; your health department or air-quality agency can recommend a lab.
Jeanne Huber writes a home-repair column for the Washington Post and has commissioned three new roofs on various houses over the years.

Low-Flow Showerheads: How to Choose

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser
Published: August 28, 2009

Thanks to innovative new technology, today's super-efficient low-flow showerheads save water, reduce your energy bills, and still feel good to use.

You've heard it for years: Save water by replacing your old showerhead with a low-flow model. But if you're like a lot of people, you may have ignored the message. That's because you're likely thinking of the early low-flow versions, which worked by simply restricting output or pumping the stream full of air. While that saved water, it didn't make for a very satisfying shower experience.
These days, thank goodness, it's different. With one of the new generation of ultra-efficient showerheads, you can reduce shower water use-and energy consumption, since we're talking about water you pay to heat-by up to 50% while still enjoying a luxurious, powerful spray.
New technologies, bigger savings
Before 1992, showerheads pumped out five or more gallons per minute (gpm), accounting for nearly 20% of indoor water use. Federal law cut that to 2.5 gallons, but the latest water-saving models do better still. Borrowing windshield-sprayer technology from the automotive industry, Delta's H2Okinetic Technology (http://www.deltafaucet.com/smarttechnology/h2okinetic-technology.html) manipulates droplet size and direction to make only 1.6 gpm feel drenching. That's a 36% reduction over a standard low-flow showerhead. Bricor (http://www.bricor.com/) uses a patented vacuum chamber that aerates and compacts water under pressure to deliver an intense blast with 1.25 gpm or less.
Other manufacturers use laminar flow, which puts out dozens of parallel streams instead of an aerated spray, creating the sensation of more water. The type you choose depends on personal preference, but at $50 to $200, any of these can quickly pay for themselves in reduced water-heating costs. You may even be able to score one for free with a rebate through your local utility.
To measure your shower's flow, put a bucket marked in gallon increments under the spray. If the water reaches the one-gallon mark in less than 20 seconds, you could benefit from a low-flow showerhead.
First, check your plumbing
While replacing your existing showerhead with one of these super-high-efficiency models can be as easy as screwing in a light bulb, it's a good idea to first assess your plumbing. The big concern is the potential for scalding or getting hit with an icy blast. Because less water is flowing through the showerhead, sudden fluctuations in temperature can be more extreme.
Homes built after the mid-1990s usually have an automatic temperature compensating (ATC) valve installed as part of the shower plumbing inside the wall. These protect against rapid changes in temperature-say when the dishwasher cycles or a maniacal sibling keeps flushing the toilet.
Quick check: If your shower has an old two-handle faucet, chances are it does not have an ATC valve. (Neither do most new two-handle systems.) In that case, simply sticking on a low-flow showerhead to save water is a bad idea. "The only appropriate way to retrofit a shower with a two-handle faucet is to eliminate the outdated faucet and install a new valve and showerhead," says Shawn Martin, technical director of the Plumbing Manufacturers Institute.
Even then, you can't be absolutely certain that the valve will work properly with an ultra-low-flow showerhead. That's because most ATC valves are certified for the current standard flow rate of 2.5 gpm. While it's expected that soon all new valves will be certified to 2.0 gpm, your best bet, if you're installing a new valve and showerhead now, is to buy them from the same manufacturer so you'll know they're designed to work together.
By early 2010, the EPA plans to start putting WaterSense (http://www.epa.gov/watersense) labels on showerheads the way they have for toilets (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/low-flow-toilets-how-choose/). Then it will be easier to identify the models that offer the biggest water savings and the best performance.
Other ways to pump up shower efficiency
In addition to offering low-flow nozzles, manufacturers have come up with other ways to make showering more efficient. Neco (http://www.neco.com.au/default.asp), an Australian company that specializes in sustainable products, has a thumb-adjusted volume control on its Rainmaker (http://www.neco.com.au/product.asp?pID=99) head. A few high-end models feature "pause" buttons that let you to stop and restart the water at the same temperature-perfect for taking a Navy shower. That's when you wet yourself down, turn off the water while you lather up, and then turn it back on to rinse.
Common practice on naval ships, where fresh water supplies are limited, this technique uses as little as 3 gallons, compared with the typical "Hollywood shower" that uses 60 gallons every 10 minutes. That amounts to a savings of 15,000 gallons a year per person.
Of course, the danger of all these new low-flow showerheads is that you'll be tempted to linger too long in your own private Niagara. Several companies have come out with shower timers to nudge habitual drenchers.
The Shower Manager (http://www.showermanager.com/) cuts the taps when time's up, and Eco Drop Shower, a stall unit by Italian designer Tommaso Colia, purports to save water not from the top down but from the bottom up. As you shower, a pattern of concentric circles embedded in the floor rises up to the point of discomfort, forcing you to exit. Just make sure to turn off the water first.
Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor to Interior Design magazine and a former editor at This Old House Magazine. A Navy brat, she feels guilty for not taking Navy showers.

Save Money With an Insulation Upgrade

By: Jeanne Huber
Published: September 10, 2009

Beefing up inadequate insulation is one of the quickest energy-payback projects you can do, resulting in lower heating and cooling bills and increased comfort.

Even if you live in an older home, there's no reason you need to shiver through the winter or roast in the summer. If your house doesn't have enough insulation-common in homes built before 1980, when energy awareness began to take hold-bringing it up to current standards will make it more comfortable all year long. Plus, you'll save anywhere from 10% to 50% on heating and cooling bills. The amount of savings for upgrading insulation depends on many factors, including where you live, what type of heating system you have, and how much insulation you add.
How to compare different types of insulation
On each type of insulation, a label states the R-value per inch, a measure of resistance to heat transfer. The bigger the number, the more effective the insulation. Where space is tight, such as within wall cavities, you need a high R-value per inch. In an attic or under a floor, where there is more room, you can boost the insulation value of a lower-rated material simply by using a thicker layer. As a rule, the more insulation you add, the more money you'll save. But there is a point beyond which you can spend more on materials than you'll recoup in lower energy bills. The tipping point varies depending on where you live. Consult the Department of Energy's zip-code specific recommendations (http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs%2bwalls/insulation/ins_16.html) for the right amount of insulation for your climate.
Adding insulation in the attic
The attic is a great place to start, because adding insulation there is quick, easy, and cost-effective. (To make any insulation upgrade more cost-effective, it's a good idea to seal air leaks (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/8-easy-ways-seal-air-leaks-around-house/) first.) In the Northeast, for example, upgrading attic insulation from R-11 to R-49 would cost around $1,500 if you hire a pro-half as much if you do it yourself-and, depending on the type of heat you have, save about $600.
To determine how much to add, look up the recommended amount for your area (http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs%2bwalls/insulation/ins_16.html), then subtract the value of your existing insulation. If you don't know, you can figure it out using the Home Energy Saver online energy audit tool (http://hes.lbl.gov/hes/makingithappen/no_regrets/insulationold.html).
There are two ways to improve attic insulation. In unfinished space, you can simply add layers to what is already on the floor. Or, if you're thinking about finishing the attic, you can put the insulation against the roof. Insulating the roof is the better method if heating and cooling ducts pass through the space, or if you live in a humid climate and want to cut down on musty smells coming from the attic.
If you're doing the job yourself (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/when-it-pays-to-do-it-yourself/), blanket-type material is easiest to work with. Just be careful not to compress it or it won't be as effective. If you're hiring a contractor, go with loose-fill cellulose or fiberglass, which fills crevices better. You'll pay a pro around $1 a square foot to blow in material; DIY batts cost about half that.
If you're insulating the roof, sprayed foam polyurethane (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/insulation_airsealing/index.cfm/mytopic=11600) works best because it molds to rafters, blocks water vapor, and has a high R-rating per inch. Expect to pay about double the cost of loose-fill insulation.
No matter which method you choose, federal tax credits (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/tax-credits-adding-or-replacing-insulation/) of up to $1,500 are available to defray the cost of materials.
Adding insulation to walls on main floors
It's fairly easy to add insulation in stud bays where none exists. (To check, cut the power to a few outlets on exterior walls, then unscrew and look behind the cover plates.) A contractor drills small holes through the inside or outside wall and blows in material. Costs range from around $1.25 per square foot for loose-fill fiberglass, cellulose, or rock wool to $4.40 for polyurethane foam, which insulates about twice as well.
If your walls already have some insulation, you probably can't add more without tearing into the drywall or plaster. That's not cost effective unless you're remodeling, so the best strategy may be to wait until you need to replace siding (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/your-guide-to-replacement-siding-options/). Then you can add insulating sheathing underneath it.
Basements and crawl spaces
Even though hot air rises, homes lose heat in all directions. So besides insulating the top and sides of your house, you also need to insulate the bottom, where as much as 30% of energy loss can occur. As with the attic, you have two choices: Insulate under the bottom floor and treat the crawl space or basement as outdoor space, or insulate the walls and treat the area as indoor space. In that case, you would close off all exterior vents except those needed for combustion air or exhaust.
Though floor insulation is more common, wall insulation has many advantages, including cost-it takes about a third less material to insulate the walls of a 36-by-48-foot basement as to insulate the subfloor above. A key detail, not understood by all builders, is to place a layer of rigid foam insulation against the foundation to keep moisture from condensing against the cold walls. If you want to finish the basement, you can cover the foam with a stud wall, fill it with unfaced fiberglass insulation, and cover with drywall.

Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 books about home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for the Washington Post.

Water Heaters: 5 Tips to Save Energy

By: Joe Bousquin
Published: August 28, 2009

Water heating accounts for up to 25% of household energy costs, but there are inexpensive things you can do to increase efficiency and reduce energy bills.

In the fight to save energy, your water heater is a born loser. That's because most houses in this country have a conventional storage-type water heater. That 50-gallon tank in the basement wants to keep water hot, so it will be ready whenever you turn on the tap. But as the water sits, it naturally begins to cool down, a process known as standby heat loss. When it does, the burner or heating element kicks on to warm it up again, in a constantly repeating cycle. According to the Department of Energy, water heating accounts for 14% to 25% of your household's total energy costs. But there are easy, low-cost steps you can take to reduce standby losses-and your hot-water bill, too. Try these five, and you'll start seeing a difference right away.
Wrap your heater in a blanket
Just as you wouldn't send little Susie out into the cold without a jacket, your water heater needs help to stay warm, especially if it's in an unheated space. A fiberglass insulating blanket can cut heat loss by 25% to 40% and save 4% to 9% on the average water-heating bill of $308, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy (http://www.aceee.org/) (ACEEE).
Insulating blankets are cheap, usually less than $30 at the home center, and it's easy to install one yourself. Follow the included directions, and take care not to block the thermostat on an electric water heater or the air inlet, exhaust, or top of the tank on a gas unit.
If your water heater is fairly new, check the manufacturer's recommendations first. Many newer units already have insulating foam built in; on these models, an after-market jacket could block a critical component.
Install low-flow fixtures
One of the surest ways to cut hot water costs is to use less of it. According to the ACEEE, a family of four uses 700 gallons of hot water per week. By installing low-flow showerheads (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/low-flow-showerheads-how-to-choose/) and faucet aerators, which cost as little as $10 to $20 each, you can cut hot water consumption by 25% to 60%. These devices are easy to install and will save 14,000 gallons of hot water annually, plus the energy it takes to heat it. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (http://www.epa.gov/) estimates the average U.S. household water bill at $474 a year. By cutting water consumption in half, you'll save more than $200 annually.
Turn down the temperature
Many water heaters come from the factory with the temperature set needlessly high. For every 10 degrees you turn it down, you'll save another 3% to 5% on your bill, according to ACEEE. A setting between 120 and 140 degrees is plenty hot for most uses. Just don't go below 120 degrees, which could lead to the unsafe growth of bacteria inside the tank.
If the thermostat on your water heater doesn't have a numbered gauge, put it midway between the "low" and "medium" marks. Wait a day, then measure the temperature at the tap with a standard cooking thermometer. Keep adjusting this way until you hit your target temperature.
Drain the sediment
Tanks naturally build up sediment, which reduces the unit's efficiency and makes it more expensive to operate. "Imagine an inch of sand inside your water heater," explains David Chisholm of manufacturer State Water Heaters. "When you get a layer at the bottom of the tank, you have to heat up that sediment before you can heat up the water."
Draining the tank is relatively easy. Turn off the water and power to the unit (set the burner on a gas unit to "pilot"). Then connect a garden hose to the spigot at the base of the tank. With the other end of the hose at a lower spot outside the house where discharging hot water poses no danger, carefully lift the pressure-relief valve at the top of the tank and turn on the spigot; water should begin to flow. While most manufacturers recommend draining the tank once or twice a year, you don't have to drain it completely; in fact, the Department of Energy (http://www.energy.gov/) recommends draining less water more often-just a quart every three months.
Insulate exposed hot-water pipes
Like blanketing the tank, wrapping hot-water pipes with insulation reduces standby losses. Water arrives at the tap 2 to 4 degrees warmer, which means you won't have to stand around as long waiting for it to heat up, thus saving water, energy, and money. While this isn't an expensive job to do yourself-six-foot-long, self-sealing sleeves easily slip over pipes and cost about $2.50 each-it could take some effort, depending on where your hot water pipes are. Exposed pipes in the basement are an easy target, but if pipes are in a hard-to-reach crawl space or inside walls, it might not be worth the trouble.
Joe Bousquin's work has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Kiplinger's Personal Finance, and Men's Journal. The owner of a 79-year-old home in Sacramento, Calif., he has a new reverence for his water heater.